Replacing brake discs (rotors) and pads is a more advanced job than basic servicing. It’s very doable with the right tools and care, but braking is safety-critical—if anything feels off afterward, the system should be checked before driving normally.
New brake discs (rotors)
New brake pads (correct for your vehicle)
Jack and axle stands (or ramps)
Wheel nut wrench
Socket set and spanners
C-clamp or brake piston rewind tool (depends on car)
Brake cleaner spray
Wire brush
Torque wrench (strongly recommended)
Gloves and eye protection
Park on level ground.
Engage handbrake and select Park/gear.
Loosen wheel nuts slightly before lifting the car.
Raise the car and secure it on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
You’ll see:
Brake caliper (clamps over disc)
Brake pads inside caliper bracket
Brake disc behind it
Locate caliper bolts (usually rear of caliper).
Undo bolts and carefully slide caliper off the disc.
Do not let it hang by the brake hose — support it with a hook or cable tie.
Slide pads out of the caliper bracket.
Note how they are positioned (inner vs outer pad wear can differ).
Undo the larger bolts holding the bracket to the hub.
Remove the bracket completely.
The disc may simply pull off or be held by a small retaining screw.
If stuck due to rust:
Tap gently with a rubber mallet.
Use penetrating oil if needed.
Use a wire brush to remove rust and debris.
Spray brake cleaner to clean the surface.
A clean hub ensures the new disc sits flat (prevents vibration).
Fit the new disc onto the hub.
Secure with retaining screw if applicable.
Wipe disc surface with brake cleaner (removes protective oil coating).
Place old pad against piston.
Use C-clamp or rewind tool to push piston back into caliper.
This creates space for new, thicker pads.
(Some rear brakes with electronic parking brakes require special reset procedures.)
Fit pads into caliper bracket in correct orientation.
Apply a small amount of brake grease to pad backing plates (not friction surface).
Reinstall caliper bracket and torque bolts properly.
Slide caliper over new pads and disc.
Tighten caliper bolts to manufacturer spec.
Put wheel back on.
Tighten wheel nuts by hand first.
Lower the car and torque nuts in a star pattern.
Press brake pedal several times before driving—this seats the pads against the disc.
Check brake fluid level (it may rise after pushing pistons back).
Inspect for leaks or loose components.
New pads and discs need bedding:
Drive gently for the first 200–300 miles
Avoid harsh braking
Do several moderate stops to gradually heat and condition the surfaces
Always replace discs and pads in axle pairs (both front or both rear together).
If discs have deep grooves, cracks, or heavy rust, replacement is essential.
If you feel vibration when braking afterward, the discs may not be seated properly or hub may not have been cleaned fully.
Never rely on a jack alone—always use axle stands.
Never get grease or oil on friction surfaces.
If braking feels soft, spongy, or uneven after replacement, stop driving and inspect the system.